There are toooooooons of travel itineraries out there, many bore me to tears. I want simplicity, options, and cultural fun facts. Those values drive (pun!) the storytelling below:
This can be a full day, this can be a bloated halfday, you do you.
Linguistic fun fact: The Faroese have two words that both translate to “island” in English. The distinction between the two words, centers on if the island is inhabited (by people) or not. And, as alllllll of the land is on an island (obviously), that word gets assumed away when translating to English. So don’t embarrass yourself by telling the locals you went to “Vágur Island,” they know it’s an island. Samesies for all the other islands.
For convenience, let’s start at the airport and drive to the delightfully inconvenient-to-reach town of Gásadalur.
Below, as seen from a plane.
One must drive through a mountain (the road is one lane wide, with pullovers for oncoming traffic) to park along the road or in the little town. Have lunch at Fjósið, then putter around and look for the house built on/over a big rock (safer than removing the rock because the elf who lives inside has the power to curse one’s bloodline).
Check out the hyperlocal souvenir shop Uanni, watch the sheep, watch the horses, stare at the jaw-dropping awesomeness that is nature, walk to the viewpoint for Múlafossur Waterfall, during clear weather you’ll be able to see (the island of) Mykines where the puffins live.
If you’re a hiking type, option to walk “The Postman’s Route” (up and over the mountain you just drove through). It’s so named – and worn into the mountainside – because the postman walked/hiked into town three times a week to deliver the mail, until the tunnel was carved in 2004.
If the mist cooperates, you might be able to see the two sea stacks that make up Drangarnir (Stóri Drangur and Lítli Drangur, large and small sea stack, respectively).
Sidebar: I got realllllllly close to seeing a dragon in these parts, Hiccup and Toothless have been spotted flying under the arch! 😀
Driving out of Gásadalur (a note to the driver: you now cede to oncoming traffic, use those pullover spots!), head to Bøur. If you want to see those sea stacks but don’t want to climb a mountain, they might make an appearance for you here too (see below, second set of land from the left).
Because of how the wind pattern changes the flow of fog in the summer, Bøur is a popular place for the Faroese to have a summer home (fyi, most have two homes, as a matter of course). If you’re really lucky there will be a wedding on the beach. If not, then build a sand castle on the black sand beach, freeze your toes off in the water, have a grand ole (quiet) time.
Want to go see the “Lake above the Ocean,” locally known as Trælanípan & Bøsdalafossur? Brush the black sand off your toesies and let’s hop back in the car. Enroute to that starting point, we’re driving by a big freshwater lake. Stop by the northern tip (day or night) and say hello to Nix, the water horse. This sculpture of a rearing horse is filled with local rocks and serves to warn small children away from the dangers of the water.
Did I not mention that it’s a 90 minute hike to that “Lake above the Ocean” viewpoint? With a substantial ticket fee per person?
The fee is to offset the cost of maintenance due to excessive tourism and the associated land degradation.
Hungry again? Drop by for a second lunch at Fiskastykkið // Úti á Gjógv (lit: fish pieces), in Sandavágur.
Help that meal digest by walking the trail – 2 hours, there and back again – to another famous seastack the Trollkonufingur / Witch’s Finger (lit: Troll Woman’s finger).
Her name is one of those fascinating “untranslatable” words into English. There is no direct translation that also conveys a consistent meaning, so a third name you might hear for this sea stack is The (Sea) Hag’s Finger. Which reminds me of Ursula.
Sandavágur is quite the wealthy town. If the church is open, there are lots of fascinating cultural bits to take in. Actually, even if it’s not open, most of the following can be seen through the windows but you’ll have to stretch to see the claim stone(!!!) to the right of the altar.
Then trundle on home to wherever you are staying – worn out but delighted.
